Histories

» Show All     «Prev «1 ... 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 ... 36» Next»     » Slide Show

The Thrales tour of France, 14 September to 14 November 1775.

Henry Thrale, MP, was invited to Paris by his friend Hugh Percy, 1st Duke of Northumberland, who was serving as the British ambassador to France. From September to November 1775, a group embarked on a tour of France, visiting Paris, Versailles, and various monasteries and convents. The traveling party consisted of:

1. Henry Thrale, the wealthy brewer and Member of Parliament;
2. Hester Thrale, Henry's wife and a notable diarist;
3. Queeney Thrale, their eldest child;
4. Dr. Samuel Johnson, the renowned lexicographer and writer; and
5. Giuseppe Baretti, Queeney's Italian tutor and Johnson's friend.

• meeting King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette at the Palace of Versailles; and
• a coaching accident.

Coaching accident

On 27 September 1775 Henry narrowly escaped serious injury after being thrown from the coach during an accident. Hester Thrale wrote of this …

The Banks of the Seine however are surprizingly beautiful, & the whole Country carries an Air of Fertility that is inexpressibly delightful: to see Cherries, Apples, Grapes. Asparagus, Lentils & French Beans planted in large portions all around one, & inviting the Traveller to partake the Bounties of the Nation is so perfectly agreeable that one frets to see so many People beg, where one is morally certain nobody can starve.

These Reflexions are interrupted by the Recollection of a Frightful Accident which befel the Carriage in which were Mr Thrale, Baretti and the Girl their Postillion fell off his Horse on a strong Descent, the Traces were broken, one of the Horses run over and the Chaise carried forwards with a most dangerous Rapidity, which Mr Thrale not being able to endure till somebody came up—jumped out with intent to stop the Horses for Baretti & Queeney—however he only hurt himself & they went on till Sam came up. who had been miserably embarrassed with a vicious Horse which had retarded him so long, and afterwards flung him.

This was therefore a day of Distress, & my Master found himself so ill when we arrived at St Germains that the Surgeon he sent for, advised him to go on to Paris & get himself bled & take a good deal of Rest which he hoped would restore him.

He left us therefore at St Germains & Mr Baretti kindly went with him to give him Assistance & pet us some Habitation to receive us at Paris.

Dr Johnson’s perfect unconcern for the Lives of three People who would all have felt for his, shocked and amaz’d me,—but that, as Baretti says, is true Philosophy; Mrs Strickland did not give it so kind a Name, I soon her Indignation towards him prevailing over her Friendship for me.

We slept at St Germains where we had excellent Beds, & on the next day I perceived Queeney had hurt her Side in yesterday’s Scuffle, but how much Reason have I to rejoyce that no more Harm befel her.

Hester Thrale's account, written on 19 Oct 1775

The Morning was spent in Dressing, the Noon in going to Court, and the Evening was got rid of at the Play.

We saw the young Princess Elizabeth dine first—her Attendant was only Madam de Guemené, who took her Plate from her to give it the page &c., but another Gentleman carved for Elizabeth is youngest Sister to the Kinge, about twelve Years old or so, not handsome but passable, if She not so pinched in her Stays as makes her look pale & uneasy to herself.

All Children through this Nation I perceive are thus squeezed and tortured during their early Years, and the Deformity they exhibit at maturity repays the stupid Parents for their Pains. The Princess herself suffers in Compliance to her Country’s Taste.

The King & Queen dined together in another Room. They had a Damask Table Cloth neither course nor fine, without anything under, or any Napkin over. Their Dishes were Silver, not clean and bright like Silver in England—but they were Silver: their Plates, Knives, Forks & Spoons were gilt. They had the Pepper & Salt standing by them as it is the Custom here & their Dinner consisted of five Dishes at a Course.

The Queen eat heartily of a Pye which the King helped her to, they did not speak at all to each other, as I remember, but both sometimes turned & talked to the Lord in waiting:

The Queen is far the prettiest Woman at her own Court, & the King is well enough—like another Frenchman.

Monsieur & Madame dine together in another Room; it is a mighty silent ceremonious Business—this dining in publick. They likewise sat like two people stuffed with straw; and only spoke to enquire after our Niggey, about whom the Queen had likewise before been very inquisitive.

She would have our Names written down, & was indeed very [condescending but] troublesome with her Enquiries. [I got to another Corner of the room & heard a Gentleman say: That is the pretty English Woman I am sure by her blushing.]

The Count & Countess D’Artois were the next Couple to be stared at, and at them also we stared our fill. The Countess is a little mean figure but has a pretty face enough & is the only one wife has brought a Child, so he will probably be Heir to France.

When we had looked at these great Folks till our Eyes aked, we returned to our Lodging, changed our Dress, and finished the Evening at the Theatre, where we had a Comedy incomparably performed: ’tis a new Piece, full of Repartee & Jokes new & old;—but the Action!—I am sorry to see the French beat us so in powers of Performance on a stage. I think however it is the only thing they excel us in & that must be my Comfort.

There were no Diamonds at all at Court but the Queen’s Earrings, & She had no other Jewels on her Head—a pair of Pearl with a picture on each were all that looked like Ornaments of expence—her Gown was Gawse adorned Flowers—& a sort of Tree in her Head, which is extravagantly high.

The Women attendants eminently ugly; not a Face which did not disgust—and the Shape such as might be expected from the management of it during their Infancy—few Ladies here escape some kind of Deformity. The Court Dress is not like ours, but plaited with a particular Fold upon the Hoop, which is large & sloped, they all have their Trains borne, and those who have English Silks are accounted the best dress’d. No more time to write a Word this Night.

Hester Thrale's account, written on 20 Oct 1775

This Morning we drove into the Forest as they call it to see the Queen ride on Horseback. We were early enough to see her mount, which was not done as in England by a Man’s hand, but the right foot is fixed in the Stirrup first & then drawn out again when the Lady is on her Saddle.

The Horse on which the Queen rode was neither handsome nor gentle, he was however confined with Martingales &c. & richly caparison’d with blue Velvet & Silver Embroidery: the Saddle was ill contrived—sloping off behind—& a Pommel so awkward that no Joyner could have executed it worse,—there was a Handle by the Side I saw.

While we were examining the Furniture and Formation of the Horse, the Queen came to ride him, attended by the Duchess de Luignes, who wore Boots & Breeches like a Man with a single Petticoat over them, her Hair tyed & her Hat cocked exactly like those of a Man,

Her Majesty’s Habit was Puce Colour as they call it her Hat filled with Feathers and her Figure perfectly pleasing. She offered her Arm to the King’s Aunts who followed her to the Rendezvous in a Coach, as they were getting out, but they respectfully refus’d her Assistance.

Our Conductor now told us that this was the Time to see the Apartments of the Palace as the Royal Family were gone out a’ Hunting. We therefore drove to the Castle, and saw the Rooms, which exceeded in Richness and Splendour all we had yet seen, unless the Hotel de Bourbon because of its newness, & the cleanliness of its Furniture, might be put in Competition with it.

In the great Gallery however which is adorn’d by Pictures of Primaticcio, & Sculptures of Cellini, & through which all the Family & their Attendants pass to & from Mass &c., there are Shops erected on each side for Trinkets, Millinery, Books & all manner of things—particularly Trusses for Deformity—which are indeed sufficiently wanted.

Never did I see so glittering a Spectacle! as no corner of the Theatre was left empty, and no one admitted who was not gayly & splendidly dress’d. Among the women however none tower’d so high in Diamonds & plumage as the Russian Ambassadress, whose Companion was as handsome as her Principal was magnificent.

The Dogs & Horses of the King was our next Exhibition, the Staghounds are beautiful indeed & chiefly of English Breeds; the Horses, (except half a Dozen kept a L’Anglois, as the Groom called it,) had no Stalls to stand in, & but 3 foot & a half Space—they were a wretched Collection indeed—of ugly, blind & lame—add to this that they are all Stone Horses, & vicious of Course. So much for the Kennel & Stable.

The Evening was filled up by dressing & continued going to the Play—not the little Theatre belonging to the Town but the fine Playhouse erected in the Castle for the Entertainment of the King, Queen, &c., who must not go to any other—except incog: None but people of the highest Quality, and those who belong to the Court of course, could be admitted into this honourable Groupe: we therefore had applied some Days ago to the English Ambassador that we might be placed there under his Protection.

Johnson and Baretti thinking themselves not brilliant men enough to shine at such a Shew remained at the Lodging—and we were stuck in a Side Box over against Monsieur and Madame, neither of whom—for I watched them—ever uttered a Single Word during the whole Representation which lasted four long hours.

The Queen had no mind to dress after her Morning’s ride they told us—so sat upstairs incog: just opposite to us & over the heads of the Brother & Sister. Never did I see so glittering a Spectacle! as no corner of the Theatre was left empty, and no one admitted who was not gayly & splendidly dress’d. Among the women however none tower’d so high in Diamonds & plumage as the Russian Ambassadress, whose Companion was as handsome as her Principal was magnificent.

Nine ambassadors were present besides the Pope’s Nuncio, & nothing vexed me but the want of Light to see the Pomp I was surrounded with. Sixteen Candles were all we had to shew ourselves off to one another with, but the Stage was sufficiently illuminated. The piece was Musical & very tender, well acted of Course, & the principal performer was a Man who had retired on the fortune he had made by Acting, & now only returned to the Stage to amuse the Queen for the few Nights.

She passes at Fontainebleau. The Crowd was extreme tonight, the heat & Stench excessive, yet Queeney bears it all.

We go to Paris again tomorrow.

King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette

On 19 & 20 October 1775 the Thrales were received by King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette at the Palace of Versailles. They were also invited to a ball at the palace the next day.

Henry Thrale letter, written on 1 October 1775

In his letter to Mr Levet …

The Queen was so impressed by Miss that she sent one of the Gentlemen to enquire who she was. Hester said “They sat like two people stuffed with straw, and only spoke to enquire after our Niggey”. The dogs were no good at all, the horses not much commended, the stables cool, the kennel filthy. Later at Versailles Mrs Thrale noticed in Queen Marie Antoinette’s royal apartments that the close stool was placed uncurtained by the Queen’s bed.

Hester Thrale's account, written on 19 October 1775

The Morning was spent in Dressing, the Noon in going to Court, and the Evening was got rid of at the Play.

We saw the young Princess Elizabeth dine first--her Attendant was only Madam de Guemené, who took her Plate from her to give it the page &c., but another Gentleman carved for Elizabeth is youngest Sister to the Kinge, about twelve Years old or so, not handsome but passable, if She not so pinched in her Stays as makes her look pale & uneasy to herself.

All Children through this Nation I perceive are thus squeezed and tortured during their early Years, and the Deformity they exhibit at maturity repays the stupid Parents for their Pains. The Princess herself suffers in Compliance to her Country's Taste.

The King & Queen dined together in another Room. They had a Damask Table Cloth neither course nor fine, without anything under, or any Napkin over. Their Dishes were Silver, not clean and bright like Silver in England--but they were Silver: their Plates, Knives, Forks & Spoons were gilt. They had the Pepper & Salt standing by them as it is the Custom here & their Dinner consisted of five Dishes at a Course.

The Queen eat heartily of a Pye which the King helped her to, they did not speak at all to each other, as I remember, but both sometimes turned & talked to the Lord in waiting:

The Queen is far the prettiest Woman at her own Court, & the King is well enough--like another Frenchman.

Monsieur & Madame dine together in another Room; it is a mighty silent ceremonious Business--this dining in publick. They likewise sat like two people stuffed with straw; and only spoke to enquire after our Niggey, about whom the Queen had likewise before been very inquisitive.

She would have our Names written down, & was indeed very [condescending but] troublesome with her Enquiries. [I got to another Corner of the room & heard a Gentleman say: That is the pretty English Woman I am sure by her blushing.]

The Count & Countess D'Artois were the next Couple to be stared at, and at them also we stared our fill. The Countess is a little mean figure but has a pretty face enough & is the only one wife has brought a Child, so he will probably be Heir to France.

When we had looked at these great Folks till our Eyes aked, we returned to our Lodging, changed our Dress, and finished the Evening at the Theatre, where we had a Comedy incomparably performed: 'tis a new Piece, full of Repartee & Jokes new & old;--but the Action!--I am sorry to see the French beat us so in powers of Performance on a stage. I think however it is the only thing they excel us in & that must be my Comfort.

There were no Diamonds at all at Court but the Queen's Earrings, & She had no other Jewels on her Head--a pair of Pearl with a picture on each were all that looked like Ornaments of expence--her Gown was Gawse adorned Flowers--& a sort of Tree in her Head, which is extravagantly high.

The Women attendants eminently ugly; not a Face which did not disgust--and the Shape such as might be expected from the management of it during their Infancy--few Ladies here escape some kind of Deformity. The Court Dress is not like ours, but plaited with a particular Fold upon the Hoop, which is large & sloped, they all have their Trains borne, and those who have English Silks are accounted the best dress'd. No more time to write a Word this Night.

Hester Thrale's account, written on 20 October 1775

This Morning we drove into the Forest as they call it to see the Queen ride on Horseback. We were early enough to see her mount, which was not done as in England by a Man's hand, but the right foot is fixed in the Stirrup first & then drawn out again when the Lady is on her Saddle.

The Horse on which the Queen rode was neither handsome nor gentle, he was however confined with Martingales &c. & richly caparison'd with blue Velvet & Silver Embroidery: the Saddle was ill contrived--sloping off behind--& a Pommel so awkward that no Joyner could have executed it worse,--there was a Handle by the Side I saw.

While we were examining the Furniture and Formation of the Horse, the Queen came to ride him, attended by the Duchess de Luignes, who wore Boots & Breeches like a Man with a single Petticoat over them, her Hair tyed & her Hat cocked exactly like those of a Man,

Her Majesty's Habit was Puce Colour as they call it her Hat filled with Feathers and her Figure perfectly pleasing. She offered her Arm to the King's Aunts who followed her to the Rendezvous in a Coach, as they were getting out, but they respectfully refus'd her Assistance.

Our Conductor now told us that this was the Time to see the Apartments of the Palace as the Royal Family were gone out a' Hunting. We therefore drove to the Castle, and saw the Rooms, which exceeded in Richness and Splendour all we had yet seen, unless the Hotel de Bourbon because of its newness, & the cleanliness of its Furniture, might be put in Competition with it.

In the great Gallery however which is adorn'd by Pictures of Primaticcio, & Sculptures of Cellini, & through which all the Family & their Attendants pass to & from Mass &c., there are Shops erected on each side for Trinkets, Millinery, Books & all manner of things--particularly Trusses for Deformity--which are indeed sufficiently wanted.

Never did I see so glittering a Spectacle! as no corner of the Theatre was left empty, and no one admitted who was not gayly & splendidly dress'd. Among the women however none tower'd so high in Diamonds & plumage as the Russian Ambassadress, whose Companion was as handsome as her Principal was magnificent.

The Dogs & Horses of the King was our next Exhibition, the Staghounds are beautiful indeed & chiefly of English Breeds; the Horses, (except half a Dozen kept a L'Anglois, as the Groom called it,) had no Stalls to stand in, & but 3 foot & a half Space--they were a wretched Collection indeed--of ugly, blind & lame--add to this that they are all Stone Horses, & vicious of Course. So much for the Kennel & Stable.

The Evening was filled up by dressing & continued going to the Play--not the little Theatre belonging to the Town but the fine Playhouse erected in the Castle for the Entertainment of the King, Queen, &c., who must not go to any other--except incog: None but people of the highest Quality, and those who belong to the Court of course, could be admitted into this honourable Groupe: we therefore had applied some Days ago to the English Ambassador that we might be placed there under his Protection.

Johnson and Baretti thinking themselves not brilliant men enough to shine at such a Shew remained at the Lodging--and we were stuck in a Side Box over against Monsieur and Madame, neither of whom--for I watched them--ever uttered a Single Word during the whole Representation which lasted four long hours.

The Queen had no mind to dress after her Morning's ride they told us--so sat upstairs incog: just opposite to us & over the heads of the Brother & Sister. Never did I see so glittering a Spectacle! as no corner of the Theatre was left empty, and no one admitted who was not gayly & splendidly dress'd. Among the women however none tower'd so high in Diamonds & plumage as the Russian Ambassadress, whose Companion was as handsome as her Principal was magnificent.

Nine ambassadors were present besides the Pope's Nuncio, & nothing vexed me but the want of Light to see the Pomp I was surrounded with. Sixteen Candles were all we had to shew ourselves off to one another with, but the Stage was sufficiently illuminated. The piece was Musical & very tender, well acted of Course, & the principal performer was a Man who had retired on the fortune he had made by Acting, & now only returned to the Stage to amuse the Queen for the few Nights.

She passes at Fontainebleau. The Crowd was extreme tonight, the heat & Stench excessive, yet Queeney bears it all.

We go to Paris again tomorrow.




Latitude	48.80442525000001
Longitude	2.120285270992599
Linked to	Paris, Île-de-France, France; Family: Thrale/Salusbury (F46) (Note); Hester Maria Thrale (Note)




» Show All     «Prev «1 ... 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 ... 36» Next»     » Slide Show